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There are hills. And buildings. Big, gray buildings. Snow. A lot of snow. And the river. A dark line cutting through the landscape. And people, an unknown number of them. Forty thousand, maybe fifty thousand. Census is not something Serbs in the north of Kosovo think about. Their daily vocabulary is filled with ‘1244’, ‘South Tyrol’, ‘1389’, ‘barricades’, ‘them and us’. They’ve become figures in a diplomatic and strategic game played by the Serbian and Kosovo political elite, the West and Russia, the local and international strongmen. And their particular interests. Many of them fought wars in Croatia and Bosnia, now they’re standing on their own doorsteps, worried.